SanDisk Extremely 3D NAND 2TB Inner SSD – SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5″/7mm, As much as 560 MB/s – SDSSDH3-2T00-G25

Great price for performance / volume
Firstly, I want to go ahead and state the following:While everyone moves to M.2 and PCI-E based NVME storage, I still recommend SATA based SSDs as the best bang for your buck. If you look at synthetic or simulated test scores from software like crystal disk mark, you may be easily swayed to pay the premium for NVME, however, real world usages still shows that SATA SSDs are still very close in terms of game / application loading speeds. Yes, the NVME is faster, there is no denying it, but at this juncture if you are looking to keep costs low, you can feel confident in still buying a standard SSD.With that out of the way, I particularly want to state that I have had really good luck with Sandisk drives, with zero failures to date. This 2TB drive is still fresh so I can’t comment on its longevity, but it booted fine and is not showing signs of early failure. To be perfectly honest, you can likely even go for the lower tier variant and not notice any real world difference in performance, but I chose the extreme because the price difference is small and when I build for someone else I tend toward slightly more premium options.

Modello: SanDisk_SDSSDH3_2T00Tutto bene: veloce e affidabile, come descrivono le altre recensioni positive. Snello e comodo anche il software SanDisk Dashboard che permette di impostare direttamente la frequenza del TRIMming.Sul mio notebook gaming ASUS GL703GS ho fatto il travaso dal vecchio 1TB al nuovo 2TB con Macrium Reflect 8 (che non fa solo backup!) in circa 55min, e che permette inoltre di spostare eventualmente la posizione di inizio delle partizioni (non permesso da Gestione Dischi di Windows 10, il quale consente solo di estenderle o ridurle) per allargare eventualmente solo la partizione centrale relegando le altre in fondo e all’inizio…Nota molto positiva: il prodotto arriva sigillato come in foto allegata, per garantirne l’autenticità e che sia effettivamente nuovo di zecca.P.S.Nota importante per chi si accinge a cambiare SSD o NVMe con Windows: assicuratevi prima di cominciare a clonare e travasare il disco vecchio nel nuovo, che il driver (da Gestione Dispositivi) usato per esso sia il generico disk driver di Microsoft, onde evitare che col cambio di disco (e quindi chipset/controller) poi Windows 10 non parta più. Mi è capitato di perderci mezza giornata dopo vari tentativi con un altro disco NVMe nuovo in cui Windows 10 travasato non partiva, finché non ho realizzato (ovviamente, in quanto l’installazione si avviava con il driver per pilotare il vecchio SSD/NVMe e perciò si bloccava al BIOS POST!).Come risolvere? All’avvio lasciate che Windows proponga il ripristino, andate in funzionalità avanzate, fino all’opzione per riavviare in modalità Avanzata (modalità provvisoria senza rete) e da lì poi lanciate Gestione Dispositivi per cambiare manualmente driver assegnato al (nuovo) disco…

Muy buen SSD, reemplace un Kingstone que tenía instalado anteriormente y se nota que mejoro la velocidad de mi PC, y en cuanto a la capacidad de 1Tb bastante bien que a mí me da de sobra ya que todo lo importante lo almaceno en un NAS y la nube, este SSD lo agarre en una oferta por $1,700Mx así que fue muy buena compra.

My problem was the usual, I had a one year old quite good computer, but it had a 7200 rpm spinning hard drive. I upgraded the RAM assuming 8GB was holding it back. 16Gb seemed to help, but I recently took it to 32Gb and that didnt seem to make any impact at all. The SSD reviewed here was intended to replace the original HDD. This is important. For the true benefits of going to an SSD you should not just fit one and use it for storage. You MUST make it your boot drive, and in my case, I even removed the original HDD after the upgrade was installed. Here is how I did it, and what I had to buy. First, you need the SSD drive – and it MUST be AT LEAST as big as your original HDD. This is very important! To get it installed, you need a right angled (at one end) Sata 3 cable. I got mine from Amazon for under 4 pounds. Finally, the drive bays in most computers are designed for larger 3.5 inch drives, so you need a frame which fits into the drive bay, and then you fit the SSD into that. From Amazon, I got these two products to complete the hardware needs – Sabrent 2.5″ SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5″ SATA Bay Converter Mounting Kit (BK-PCBS) and the cable was KUYiA SATA Cable III, 35cm Locking Latch Straight to 90 Degree Right Angled Data Leads 6Gbps Speed, HDD SSD DVD Writer Connection Cord Metal Clip L-Ty. Before you begin, find out how to update the BIOS on your motherboard. The latest bios should support the SSD even though the one you have now probably does too. So next you fit the drive into the computer, close it up, reconnect everything and power up. The next step is designed to make the SSD your boot drive – to do this you have to clone the original HDD onto the SSD – this is why it is important to buy an SSD at least the same size, or bigger, than your HDD. There are freeware clone software packages out there, and Sandisk also provide one on the drive too, I used one of these to CLONE the HDD – this process copies partitions, system files, applications and all your other data files (absolutely everything actually) and took 40 minutes on my computer. Look online for tutorials on cloning HDD to SSD or making your SSD a boot drive by cloning, there are one or two good videos out there. When the clone is finished and reports that everything is OK, the next bit is very important. shut the computer down, disconnect everything again, and open her up. Now, take the power and the data cables off your original HDD so that it cannot boot. Remember, your SSD is already connected. Now close her up, reconnect cables, and switch on. On my computer, it has an automatic BIOS and on the FIRST boot with the new drive, it goes looking for a bootable drive. Once it has done that once, it goes to that drive first, every time, so I could reconnect my HDD if I needed to. I chose to actually remove the HDD from the computer completely as I have a very large USB HDD for backup and storage. The HDD is now safe so if the SSD should fail in a few years, I can put it back and pick up from there – just copy my new work back onto it from my USB backups. So after all this, was it worth it? Here are some stats for you to consider – Booting up to windows 10 from cold start – HDD anywhere from 100 to 145 seconds, and no two boots were the same. With the SSD – 43 seconds, this morning, yesterday, and tomorrow, it never varies!. Shut down – HDD Anywhere between 19 and 35 seconds normally, but every so often, the computer would hang and take 4 or 5 minutes without any aparent reason. With the SSD the shut down is 6 seconds, every single time. Processing times – I use Photoshop with very large NEF Nikon Raw files (75Mb or larger). Photoshop was taking up to 61 seconds to load clean, and if I clicked an image in a folder instead, as a way to start it, you could add a further 20 seconds. With the SSD Photoshop clean is 5 seconds, and clicking an image instead, to start photoshop with the image loaded, takes 8 seconds. The incredible improvement is just a part of the story though. Another important thing is predictability. When I shut down my computer now, I KNOW it will power down in 6 seconds, no messing about. Sometimes I would have to answer the door, or go to the phone, and the computer would still be trying to shut down when I returned. Same goes for starting up. By the time I have sat down and got comfortable, the desktop is loaded and ready to go in just over half a minute. Another great thing is things like Windows or other updates, where the computer has to restart several times. What used to take half an hour now takes 3 or 4 minutes. Just do your research, watch a few videos, get hold of the freeware software for cloning, and follow the procedure carefully, I am not a computer engineer, but it was quite easy. If you have a laptop, you’re going to have to use a usb data connector for the cloning bit, and will probably be forced to remove your original HDD because there is no room in the laptop for a second drive. Apart from that, the process is the same. If you have not got an automatic BIOS like mine (most are these days) you need to access it manually. When the computer is switched on, immediately start tapping the F2 button (on some computers it is the ESC button). Once into the bios be careful not to change anything except the boot order. Point the BIOS at the SSD drive as the FIRST drive to boot, and then restart. That should do it, but you could disconnect the original HDD just to be on the safe side, as explained above. Was it worth it, Oh my goodness yes it was, Word and Excel start in a blink, under a second now. and on top of everything else, the computer is a desktop, but is quieter than a laptop now the HDD is not in there spinning at 7200 RPM and making all that noise and using all that power. Wonderful, would buy again in a heartbeat, I will never go back to spinning drives again.